vintage 2014 5 years after bottling
Last year, we launched a "5 years after" tasting cycle to judge the development and presentation of the wines after 5 years in bottle.
At the same tasting a year ago, the 2013 vintage surprised us with its openness ... how are the 2014s today?
Like last year, we had friends to assist us, this time a fine FICOFI team, led by Delphine, thank you for the excellent support you provided us!
Our experience so far with this vintage is that after a nice "setting up" in the first two years of aging, the wines had a tendency to close, a very classic development after all, the 2013s constituting rather an exception in this regard.
When it was first marketed, we described 2014 as a vintage of balance: perfectly decent maturity, between 12.5 and 13 °, acidity and tannins very present but not excessively. Entry-level wines were described as "approachable", premier crus and grand crus as "structured" or even "serious".
Even if the harvest was not particularly late that year (beginning September 13), it is therefore not a hot year, it is even our last fresh year: all vintages since have been indeed marked by heat, perhaps to varying degrees, in any case enough to give characteristics of ripe vintages to our wines. This context is not insignificant because our palates recalibrate quickly and we may not be so ready to evaluate a vintage like 2014, now quite far from these characteristics of concentration and sweetness.
Make way for the tasting itself! The wines were all tasted upon opening, without preparation, which also allows to monitor their evolution.TASTING NOTESASSESSMENT OF THE TASTINGAll the News
Hautes Côtes de Nuits "Clos St Philibert" 2014:
A pretty nose, quite ripe, with a trace of reduction. The woodiness shows in the form of toasted and aniseed notes.
On the palate, the wine reveals a beautiful volume, appears almost sweet before a still very acidic finish, which gives it a lot of sides.
We can say that the wine is showing good integration, its evolution is positive, in particular because the élevage has integrated well. However, it needs to be aerated and would gain in integration with a few more years, ideally three to five.
At first, a discreet nose, but which opens quickly, with notes of red fruits and cherries marinated in brandy. We also discover a hint of spice and undergrowth.
The palate is quite caressing, the texture supple. The wine then continues on its fine and elegant momentum, with a finish properly spiced up by acidity and peppery notes.
In the end, a pleasant wine, expressive although fine, which now seems good to drink. Of course, it can still wait 3 to 5 years, but this is not essential given its light structure.
Chambolle Feusselottes 2014:
A nose which indicates a certain evolution (leather, cloves), a little reduction but also after airing, black fruits of a beautiful intensity.
The palate is silky, shimmering, pleasant even if the finish is marked by a certain tannin, even bitterness for some.
It is an interesting bottle because the wine is already expressive. However, it can still gain in width in the mouth and we can hope that the finish will become more polished in the next 3 to 7 years.
Vosne Romanée 2014:
A little closed at first, with almost animal scents, which eventually give way to ripe red fruits (cherry, raspberry). Beautiful integration of wood with liquorice and mint notes.
On the palate, there is concentration, a certain rigor, a beautiful sheathed structure, between volume and still firm tannins.
Despite a harmonious, coherent, well integrated wine, we still feel a certain restriction, and can conclude it is not yet fully open. Cellaring of at least 3 years, more likely 5, seems necessary.
Vosne Chaumes 2014:
A smoky nose, very slightly reduced, with some vegetal notes. After airing, floral, sour cherry and citrus aromas, not to mention toasted and vanilla notes.
On the palate, a very beautiful frame, with a frank attack, a very nice consistency and a finish marked by solid tannins.
An alliance of gourmandise and rectitude, certainly representing a very good potential of elegance and flavors. Despite this, it still expresses a lot of restraint and deserves to age another 3 to 7 years.
Clos Vougeot 2014:
The nose is at the same time deep, delicate and seductive: between notes of sweet black fruits, flowers such as rose ; the aging is also perfectly integrated in the form of damp earth and dried leaf.
On the palate, it shows sweetness and smoothness while giving the impression of being reserved. The texture is caressing, the tannins delicate, but the wine remains somewhat monolithic. Can we gain in complexity in the years to come? Or should we consider decanting to free its wings?
Vosne Brulées 2014:
Quite closed at the beginning, it has to be be solicited to bring aromas of black fruits back from reduction, liquorice and smoky touches.
On the palate, quite powerful, even imposing, with a frank attack, a voluminous mid-palate and a racy but tannic finish.
A superb wine, majestic, deep, not without harmony but which must absolutely age to reveal its full potential. Another 10 years!
Hautes Côtes de Nuits Clos Saint-Philibert
Lots of liveliness and freshness on the palate, well balanced by some fat and volume, round.
True to wine and vintage
Ready to drink - open in advance
After aeration, intense nose of fresh red fruits
Beautiful typicality of Marsannay
Lively, digestible and ready to drink
(Barreaux + Communes)
Ripe and concentrated nose (cherry, raspberry)
Straightness, tension, elegance
Can wait a few more years: still very tight but good potential, good material
Chambolle-Musigny Les Feusselottes
Nose more evolved, a little secondary, more expressive
Well balanced body between acidity and tannins-structure
Nice texture in the mouth with a nice grain of tannin
A little tight, specific to the vintage being a little cold, but very interesting
Ready to drink even if will benefit from prolonged aging
Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Chaumes
Aromas of red and black fruits, a minty note? (10-15% whole cluster)
Nice texture, a little reserved, the finish a little harsh
Racy wine, with a beautiful tannic structure.
The nose is already quite open and very pleasant, quite fruity (blackcurrant?).
Nice balance in the mouth between acidity and tannins, good energy
Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru aux Brulées
Slight hint of reduction on the first nose, opens with aeration. Characteristic nose of Brûlées: floral and spicy.
Lots of power and intensity on the palate. Fine tannins. Very good length in the mouth.
Great aging potential, wait a few years to polish perfectly.
Apart from Marsannay and Chambolle Feusselottes, this tasting is confirmation of what we suspected, namely that the vintage is not yet ready. The Vosne in particular have closed markedly, the description which was given on their release suggested more approachable wines. Clos Vougeot, as it is often between charm and structure, is finally more easily approachable.
This fine vintage, not necessarily very concentrated by current standards, paradoxically requires additional aging in order to be able to precisely reveal all its complexity and not appear to be out of step. He is on the right track but not yet at his destination.
Five years after their bottling, the 2014 Domaine Méo-Camuzet, still very young, give us their first lessons: this vintage is marked by a pretty nose of fresh fruit, a beautiful liveliness and very present but fine tannins. Being the last fresh vintage in recent years, its rather atypical profile compared to what happened later, will in our opinion be sought after in a few years.
If some wines are already opening and starting to be ready to drink (Marsannay, Feusselottes, even Clos Saint-Philibert), most remain, as expected, still a little tight and not yet having delivered their full potential of expression. This potential is obvious and a few more years will give them more openness and flexibility. We can think at this stage that these 2014s will rather become more open from 2025-2030. The Chaumes and Aux Brûlées, with their tannic power, can certainly wait until 2030-2035 - if you have the patience!