A season punctuated by heat and storms 

We were worried about the winter's water deficit. April and early May were not particularly warm and the vines did not grow much. Conditions changed and became very summery by the end of May. Vegetation then «exploded», leading to very rapid flowering, in less than a week, in the first days of June. Heat became a concern, as did drought, but the 2023 season was by then marked by spaced, significant and regular rainstorms. So much so that the drought damage feared ultimately was non-existent; indeed, our young plants, particularly at Clos St Philibert (our back photo), fared very well. On the other hand, the amount of the water accumulations (fortunately without hail), increased the frequency of treatments.

Harvest potential was therefore very high.

Mild winters, a rainy start to spring, warm temperatures during flowering, abundant water at the beginning of July during fruit set: all these factors translated into a very high harvest potential at the end of July. Once the diagnosis had been made, we set to work to regulate this increasingly unusual harvest as it drew closer to completion. It took three weeks of work with a full team to achieve a serious green harvest, and thus return to a load compatible with our required quality.

A heatwave during the harvest

The end of the season was characterized by extreme heat, never so intense after August 15. A heavy thunderstorm at the end of August tempered its effects, but allowed the grapes to swell. The end of August and the very beginning of September were gloomy and did little to ripen the grapes; that was before another heatwave at the beginning of September, unprecedented for this period, caused ripening to soar. We began harvesting on September 5-6. Despite the trying conditions, our aim was to complete harvest as quickly as possible. We finished around the 15th, with our teams exhausted!

A Careful vinification

Marked by extremes, this harvest required considerable sorting: there were a few areas of rot and quite a few raisins; no under-ripeness though: the green harvest must have been effective. Sugars were high, and concentration appeared correct, even if some « saignée » were necessary. Juice monitoring was even more rigorous than usual, for fear of aromatic deviations; cold maceration was a little shorter, vinification temperatures slightly lower and extraction normal. Only a few acidity corrections were necessary.

A serene ageing and a bright future!

At the start of evolution in the cellar, the wines appeared well-colored, a little easy perhaps and still marked by maturity; a volatile acidity slightly higher than normal at this stage prompted us to be vigilant. The vintage was not yet set in its character.
One year on, the wines have retained their beautiful color, acquired fleshiness and recovered freshness. The 23 vintage appears rich and very appealing, without the slight touch of severity of the 2022s, which suggested this vintage needed a longer evolution.

Tasting in the final stages

For our wines in 2023, the different phases of ageing followed each other quietly, with progressive malolactic fermentations; in the end, these wines proved to be very stable and posed no particular problems for us, perhaps because we were on our guard? Or because their tension and deep structure are greater than we initially thought, contributing to their balance? Their future looks promising, and what's more, they're already very good! They're currently revealing plenty of flesh and appeal, but they'll stand up to long cellaring, which will allow them to fully express their potential and personality.

BOURGOGNE Hautes de Côtes de Nuits blanc « Clos St Philibert »

The ripeness of the 2023 vintage jumps out at you on the nose: lovely ripe fruits such as apricot and plum are immediately apparent, complemented by notes of nougat and dried fruit (almonds).
The attack on the palate is enveloping and delicious, but not overpowering; the finish is fine, with a hint of minerality, before a warmer return enhanced by pretty bitters, which contribute to the overall persistence.
A "Clos St Phi" less lively and more imposing than usual, even if the sensation of pebbles, typical of this wine, is still there. The profile is therefore more that of a meal wine than an aperitif. The wine should, however, refine with age. From 2027.

BOURGOGNE Côte d'Or rouge « Etienne Camuzet »

Initially, the nose is a little reserved, but a lovely bouquet of fresh red and black fruits soon emerges. Spicy and sweet notes enliven the picture.
The palate is fairly straightforward and vigorous, with just the right amount of texture to avoid appearing austere. The finish is tense and acidic, with a nice freshness for the vintage. There's a hint of tannin, which contributes to the wine's impression of energy.
A very fine Bourgogne AC, with great complexity, but which will need time to better integrate its concentration and structure. 2-3 years' cellaring before drinking is therefore advisable. From 2027.

MARSANNAY

This wine makes a very good first impression, with a beautiful aromatic profile, between liveliness (black fruits) and ripeness (nougat, almonds, fruit pastries).
Luscious and complex, the palate is initially in tune, but structure soon emerges: from the middle of the tasting, tannins are noticeable, which do not jeopardize the wine's overall balance, but nevertheless give it a tight, slightly austere character.
It's a coherent wine, but compact and vertical, with good acidity for the vintage. It's worth waiting for, especially as its progress during cellaring was slow. From 2028-9.

FIXIN

This wine greets us with a lovely, ripe nose of fresh figs, cherries, crushed strawberries... Aromas of dried fruit, spices and caramel complete the picture, creating a bouquet more open and complex than usual for this wine.
The palate is full-bodied but well rounded. The tannins are noticeable but caressing, and the finish is slightly taut with acidity.
This is a fine wine, balanced between tension and deliciousness. But the wine is not yet fully open, it remains compact and, as such, deserves to wait. From 2028-9

GEVREY CHAMBERTIN

A wide-open, very charming nose, where fruity (strawberry, cherry) and sweet (pastry) aromas intermingle; we also detect a touch of zest, woody aromas, spices...
This indulgence is echoed on the palate, with a beautiful texture that immediately seduces us. Is it lacking in seriousness? A fine uprightness and a certain vivacity on the finish "corrects" what could be taken for an excess of flattery.
Quite accessible and even delicate at times, this wine can be drunk young to take advantage of the vintage, but should also age very well. From 2027.

VOSNE-ROMANÉE

The nose is open, ripe but lifted by red and black fruits that bring the freshness to which this wine has become accustomed. The new wood is noticeable and has yet to mellow, while spicy and black tea notes can also be detected. It all adds up to a complex and engaging picture.
Concentration is striking on the palate, with a voluptuous texture, a lush mid-palate, perhaps a little warm but very quickly lifted by this wine's traditional acidity.
A wine that impresses and seduces with its complete and complex profile, quite majestic but also rather accessible. We can imagine it aging very well, but it may be difficult to resist in its youth. Our recommendation would be to wait until 2030.

CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY

Right from the start, you know you're in Chambolle with a fine, subtle nose, expressing lots of black fruit and spicy, herbaceous notes. The wood is also noticeable, with hints of licorice and chocolate.
The palate is lush and dense, with a fine, caressing texture. The finish, full of energy and sparkle, is quite lively and tight.
It's a beautifully balanced wine, open even, but one that doesn't yet give itself away completely: still collected, not very loose, we sense that it has great potential and that we'll be rewarded if we wait a few years. From 2030.