A season punctuated by heat and storms 

We were worried about the winter's water deficit. April and early May were not particularly warm and the vines did not grow much. Conditions changed and became very summery by the end of May. Vegetation then «exploded», leading to very rapid flowering, in less than a week, in the first days of June. Heat became a concern, as did drought, but the 2023 season was by then marked by spaced, significant and regular rainstorms. So much so that the drought damage feared ultimately was non-existent; indeed, our young plants, particularly at Clos St Philibert (our back photo), fared very well. On the other hand, the amount of the water accumulations (fortunately without hail), increased the frequency of treatments.

Harvest potential was therefore very high.

Mild winters, a rainy start to spring, warm temperatures during flowering, abundant water at the beginning of July during fruit set: all these factors translated into a very high harvest potential at the end of July. Once the diagnosis had been made, we set to work to regulate this increasingly unusual harvest as it drew closer to completion. It took three weeks of work with a full team to achieve a serious green harvest, and thus return to a load compatible with our required quality.

A heatwave during the harvest

The end of the season was characterized by extreme heat, never so intense after August 15. A heavy thunderstorm at the end of August tempered its effects, but allowed the grapes to swell. The end of August and the very beginning of September were gloomy and did little to ripen the grapes; that was before another heatwave at the beginning of September, unprecedented for this period, caused ripening to soar. We began harvesting on September 5-6. Despite the trying conditions, our aim was to complete harvest as quickly as possible. We finished around the 15th, with our teams exhausted!

A Careful vinification

Marked by extremes, this harvest required considerable sorting: there were a few areas of rot and quite a few raisins; no under-ripeness though: the green harvest must have been effective. Sugars were high, and concentration appeared correct, even if some « saignée » were necessary. Juice monitoring was even more rigorous than usual, for fear of aromatic deviations; cold maceration was a little shorter, vinification temperatures slightly lower and extraction normal. Only a few acidity corrections were necessary.

A serene ageing and a bright future!

At the start of evolution in the cellar, the wines appeared well-colored, a little easy perhaps and still marked by maturity; a volatile acidity slightly higher than normal at this stage prompted us to be vigilant. The vintage was not yet set in its character.
One year on, the wines have retained their beautiful color, acquired fleshiness and recovered freshness. The 23 vintage appears rich and very appealing, without the slight touch of severity of the 2022s, which suggested this vintage needed a longer evolution.

Tasting in the final stages

For our wines in 2023, the different phases of ageing followed each other quietly, with progressive malolactic fermentations; in the end, these wines proved to be very stable and posed no particular problems for us, perhaps because we were on our guard? Or because their tension and deep structure are greater than we initially thought, contributing to their balance? Their future looks promising, and what's more, they're already very good! They're currently revealing plenty of flesh and appeal, but they'll stand up to long cellaring, which will allow them to fully express their potential and personality.

BOURGOGNE Hautes de Côtes de Nuits blanc « Clos St Philibert »

The ripeness of the 2023 vintage jumps out at you on the nose: lovely ripe fruits such as apricot and plum are immediately apparent, complemented by notes of nougat and dried fruit (almonds).
The attack on the palate is enveloping and delicious, but not overpowering; the finish is fine, with a hint of minerality, before a warmer return enhanced by pretty bitters, which contribute to the overall persistence.
A "Clos St Phi" less lively and more imposing than usual, even if the sensation of pebbles, typical of this wine, is still there. The profile is therefore more that of a meal wine than an aperitif. The wine should, however, refine with age. From 2027.

BOURGOGNE Côte d'Or rouge « Etienne Camuzet »

Initially, the nose is a little reserved, but a lovely bouquet of fresh red and black fruits soon emerges. Spicy and sweet notes enliven the picture.
The palate is fairly straightforward and vigorous, with just the right amount of texture to avoid appearing austere. The finish is tense and acidic, with a nice freshness for the vintage. There's a hint of tannin, which contributes to the wine's impression of energy.
A very fine Bourgogne AC, with great complexity, but which will need time to better integrate its concentration and structure. 2-3 years' cellaring before drinking is therefore advisable. From 2027.

MARSANNAY

This wine makes a very good first impression, with a beautiful aromatic profile, between liveliness (black fruits) and ripeness (nougat, almonds, fruit pastries).
Luscious and complex, the palate is initially in tune, but structure soon emerges: from the middle of the tasting, tannins are noticeable, which do not jeopardize the wine's overall balance, but nevertheless give it a tight, slightly austere character.
It's a coherent wine, but compact and vertical, with good acidity for the vintage. It's worth waiting for, especially as its progress during cellaring was slow. From 2028-9.

 

FIXIN

This wine greets us with a lovely, ripe nose of fresh figs, cherries, crushed strawberries... Aromas of dried fruit, spices and caramel complete the picture, creating a bouquet more open and complex than usual for this wine.
The palate is full-bodied but well rounded. The tannins are noticeable but caressing, and the finish is slightly taut with acidity.
This is a fine wine, balanced between tension and deliciousness. But the wine is not yet fully open, it remains compact and, as such, deserves to wait. From 2028-9

GEVREY CHAMBERTIN

A wide-open, very charming nose, where fruity (strawberry, cherry) and sweet (pastry) aromas intermingle; we also detect a touch of zest, woody aromas, spices...
This indulgence is echoed on the palate, with a beautiful texture that immediately seduces us. Is it lacking in seriousness? A fine uprightness and a certain vivacity on the finish "corrects" what could be taken for an excess of flattery.
Quite accessible and even delicate at times, this wine can be drunk young to take advantage of the vintage, but should also age very well. From 2027.

VOSNE-ROMANÉE

The nose is open, ripe but lifted by red and black fruits that bring the freshness to which this wine has become accustomed. The new wood is noticeable and has yet to mellow, while spicy and black tea notes can also be detected. It all adds up to a complex and engaging picture.
Concentration is striking on the palate, with a voluptuous texture, a lush mid-palate, perhaps a little warm but very quickly lifted by this wine's traditional acidity.
A wine that impresses and seduces with its complete and complex profile, quite majestic but also rather accessible. We can imagine it aging very well, but it may be difficult to resist in its youth. Our recommendation would be to wait until 2030.

CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY

Right from the start, you know you're in Chambolle with a fine, subtle nose, expressing lots of black fruit and spicy, herbaceous notes. The wood is also noticeable, with hints of licorice and chocolate.
The palate is lush and dense, with a fine, caressing texture. The finish, full of energy and sparkle, is quite lively and tight.
It's a beautifully balanced wine, open even, but one that doesn't yet give itself away completely: still collected, not very loose, we sense that it has great potential and that we'll be rewarded if we wait a few years. From 2030.

NUITS ST GEORGES 1ER CRU AUX MURGERS

The ripeness of this wine is immediately revealed by a lovely nose of cherry and fresh fig, but this sweet impression is enhanced by tangy notes of blood orange. Wood still exerts its influence through smoky, vanilla notes.
On the palate, the wine is also very gourmand, round and full-bodied. There's an undeniable warmth, but the tannic and acidic structures rebalance this wine at the end, giving it great persistence.
Whatever the year, Nuits Murgers lacks neither power nor energy. Full-bodied and demonstrative today, it needs ageing to become more integrated and offer even greater complexity.

NUITS ST GEORGES 1ER CRU AUX BOUDOTS

Here, the fruit is red (crushed strawberry and raspberry) and the oak well integrated. A few vegetal and black tea notes complete a very pleasant picture, which augurs well for what's to come.

On the palate, it unfurls all its charms, caressingly and subtly, without imposing itself. After an opulent start, the midpalate is full and juicy, and the finish full of flavor.

In its 2023 version, Boudots is true to its classics: delicious and approachable, it's already so seductive that it's hard to resist. But this is the well-structured 2023 vintage, which obviously has good ageing potential, so some will prefer to wait.

CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 1ER CRU LES FEUSSELOTTES

We are greeted by a subtle bouquet of ripe cherry, black fruit and fresh fig. There are also a few sweet notes and even a hint of dark chocolate.

On the palate, the wine is dense and compact, giving an initial impression of straightforwardness, before a very fine finish in which a subtle boisé adds length.

Already very pretty, there's nevertheless a certain reserve, which should encourage cellaring. It would be wise to wait a few years for a more delicate wine.

CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 1ER CRU LES FUEES

What a treat! Aromas of red and black fruits, lightly oaky notes and a touch of caramel make up a stall that would not be out of place in a great pastry shop.

We continue in the same vein with a beautifully textured palate that reveals hints of nougat.

This is Chambolle, of course, but there's a certain straightforwardness and energy on the finish that makes you bet on this wine's future. Wait a few years for optimum tasting.

CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 1ER CRU LES CHARMES

Here, a more timid nose, which needs a little prodding but soon blossoms, offering a composition of crushed red fruits, floral notes of rose, lychee and a few vegetal touches.

The palate is immediately broad, even opulent and caressing, giving an impression of quiet majesty, without dominance. From the mid-palate onwards, the spices that characterize this wine (thyme, rosemary, black tea) are present, bringing freshness and persistence to the finish.
Despite its openness, this wine has reserves and can give even more. To be awaited, then, for an even more varied tasting in a few years' time.

VOSNE-ROMANÉE 1ER CRU LES CHAUMES : 

The bouquet is immediately appealing, with its mix of red and black fruits, notably cherry, expressive wood, spices and a few hints of zest to refresh the overall impression.

The palate is imposing, with a round texture lining the palate at the start of tasting. Barely overly warm, the wine graces us with a beautiful uprightness on the finish, which lifts and prolongs it.

This is a more impressive Chaume than usual, with great concentration yet balance and persistence. Wait for it to develop its subtlety and wisdom.

CORTON PERRIÈRES

You're immediately hooked by a powerful nose of black fruits. And that's not all: notes of aromatic herbs, particularly rosemary, and wood prolong the charm and pave the way for a promising follow-up.

As this wine is very ripe, the palate is quite warm at first, then the impression of straightforwardness dominates. Intense yet austere, it also gratifies us with pronounced tannins on the finish.

Full-bodied and admittedly rather severe (in the context of the vintage), this typical Corton Perrières will appeal to thrill-seekers. Mellowing out in 10 years' time.

CORTON LA VIGNE AU SAINT

A lovely nose of red and black fruits. A jumble of interesting aromas greets us, with red and black fruits, enhanced by spicy and smoky notes and vegetal and licorice aromas.

The palate is beautiful, caressing and very fine, without harshness, long...

Full of softness, balanced and digestible, this wine is one of the few of the vintage to be accessible now and to guarantee immediate pleasure. This is not at all in contradiction with harmonious aging.

CORTON CLOS ROGNET

The nose is highly distinctive: abundant red and black fruit, saltiness, spiciness (pepper, nutmeg) and a touch of sweetness provide a real gourmet experience even before tasting.

Full-bodied from the start, the wine even gains in volume and density during tasting. It never forgets sweetness, and a touch of tannin on the finish ensures great persistence.

This almost one-hundred-year-old vineyard is still going strong! It succeeds in the tour de force of reconciling power and seduction, without forgetting an astonishing capacity for ageing.

CHARMES CHAMBERTIN

A slight reduction quickly gives way to black fruits, cinnamon and spices.

While the nose may have seemed reserved, the palate is immediately caressing and indulgent, with fruit returning in retro-olfaction. The finish is tighter, without being strict.

As is often the case, this is a flattering wine, full of softness and easy to drink, with the complexity of a grand cru to boot. Further ageing will enhance its coherence.

CLOS VOUGEOT « Près le Cellier »

Beautiful black fruits greet us. This bouquet is complemented by aromas of dried fruit, fresh fig and tobacco, not forgetting a touch of aromatic herbs and menthol in particular.

The palate is enveloping but also tight and vertical, rather reserved, revealing the power in the making. The finish is fine and prolonged by discreet tannins.

Dressed to the nines, this Clos Vougeot "près le cellier" is not without uprightness. One can only admire its potential. To be aged for a few years.

CLOS VOUGEOT « le Passage »

Here too, the black fruits are present, dark and concentrated. Aromas of almond add a touch of deliciousness.

The beginning of the palate is very seductive and enveloping, the middle seems a little warmer, before a sparkling, slightly tannic finish that lasts a long time.

This Clos Vougeot 'le Passage' (formerly Grand Maupertuis) has plenty of presence and charm. However, a few years' ageing are needed to bring out its coherence and suppleness.

ÉCHEZEAUX

Spectacular, the nose is full of black fruit, frangipane and hints of smoked tea.

On the palate, it's equally lush and round, with a silky texture. But there is also a great deal of reserve, which is both surprising and very promising for the future. The freshness and energy on the finish, which tightens it up a little, contribute to the overall appeal.

A wine that continues to surprise us: despite its already very demonstrative side, it could become even more interesting with age and gain in coherence.

VOSNE ROMANÉE AUX BRULÉES

Red fruit and a combination of honey, cinnamon and vanilla (crème brûlée, of course!) make up a seductive nose, albeit still a little shy.

The palate is obviously very caressing and sweet, but it soon straightens out and continues to unfold throughout the tasting. The only downside is that wood tannins still stand out a little.

This wine already has a lot going for it, but it could gain even more with age, by dominating its current generosity and integrating the few elements that still stand out.

VOSNE ROMANÉE AU CROS PARANTOUX

Red and black fruits, combined with frangipane, create a delicious picture. You're under its spell, especially as it doesn't take long to discover a variety of spices, smoked tea and much more...

The palate is very caressing and seductive, softer and sweeter than usual. The finish is very long, with the characteristic freshness of the terroir emerging as the wine broadens, all without aggressiveness.

A gentle but still powerful Cros Parantoux, which should reach its optimum drinking potential earlier than usual and offer great pleasure over the next 10 years.

RICHEBOURG

The bouquet is distinguished more by its subtlety than by its power, and it's hard to make a complete list of what you feel: red fruit, aromatic herbs, vegetal touches, spices, smoked wood...

Once on the palate, it imposes itself but remains seductive. Yet the wine fills the mouth and even widens in the finish, in a magnificent cartwheel.

Impressive in texture and elegance, this is a great example of Richebourg that awaits us! Should we be patient or give in to the temptation of this wine that already has so much to give?