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2021: classical, despite exceptional conditions
One swallow does not make a summer ... Exceptional temperatures in February and March were able to delight us after winter, allowing aperitifs on the terrace but also favored a quick start of the vine. Which was therefore particularly vulnerable when the cold was back in early April ... The damage was more important than in 2016: variable in intensity but generalized and some appellations were strongly affected.
The SeasonHarvest and VinificationBottling and CharacterTasting notes: Bourgognes and VillagesTasting notes: Premiers crusAll the NewsThe rest of the season is bumpy: a rainy May does not foster the regrowth of the vine, June on the contrary sees the return of summer conditions and the vegetation "explodes"; the return of rains at the end of June and thunderstorm conditions in July slow down its progression: this allows us to catch up in the vineyard but the pressure of the mildiou and powdery mildew is beginning to be felt. It is then acquired that the vintage will be rather late, especially since weather continues to be mixed. Beautiful summer periods in August and September, however, allow the grapes to mature, not without a few alerts: the pressure of diseases increases, while we are rather used to considering ourselves out of the woods during this period. And botrytis, latent so far, becomes apparent ...
Harvest began on September 21. It took place in good conditions: in good weather, however under the threat of rains, which will finally fall in limited quantities. The work was fast: a homogeneous maturity, therefore not requiring to wait and a botrytis ultimately less developed than expected, made sorting quite manageable; And a small harvest, curiously, takes less time to pick ...
Reflective of the frost and the rainy season, natural degrees are lower than in recent years (12.4 on average), acids are fairly low also, and we see clusters with big berries and therefore a large proportion of juice in the tanks.
During the vinifications, no higher extraction than usual, even if a slight chaptalization was used also to somewhat prolong the maceration; gentle treatment of the juices, then of the wines; Slow élevage, with delayed malos as much as possible, and bottling without precipitation for this delicate material.
The end of the élevage suggests a soft and accessible vintage. Many describe it as "traditional" because they find the delicacy of the burgundies they loved 30 years ago ... It is not a cold vintage, however: the maturities reached would have been highly desired in the past and the low acidities do not favor freshness, even less greenness. But obviously, the character of the wines is in total break with the hot and concentrated vintages harvested since 2018 and if heaviness has been a concern in recent years, this is not at all the case in 21!
This season does not look like any other but the wines profile recalls the 2007 or for those who have a lot of ... experience, 1992; A little 2017 too ... The 2021 may have less radiance but seem more caressing and therefore, very approachable.
Everything therefore designates this vintage for early tasting. This does not mean that it will not be able to age but it is a question of opportunity: having wines (including grands crus) whose complexity is revealed early is quite rare and we must take advantage of it! We hope for a gradual evolution, without real closure, with perhaps a small tightening, which would be beneficial and would contribute even more to their elegance.
BOURGOGNE BLANC
Attractive from the first nose, it offers an open and mature bouquet. It is characterized by notes of fresh fruit such as pineapple, pear but also a floral note such as hawthorn. A touch of butter and brioche adds to the complexity of the aromas.
The mouth is fresh and tonic with a chiselled matter and carried on citrus fruits. The final is precise and salivating, with beautiful noble bitters.
When young, one can appreciate its aromatic freshness and its tonicity. With a few years in bottle, it will gain in roundness, richness and integration.
Keeps for 5 to 7 years.
BOURGOGNE HAUTES CÔTES DE NUITS BL " Clos St Philibert"
Open and subtle nose. It reveals fragrances of nectarine, white flowers like acacia and chalky notes. A seductive fruit with an obvious minerality. Its woodiness is finely assimilated.
Superb tonic and dynamic mouth. Ample texture. Its acidity perfectly integrates the matter and offers a stretched and sustained finish. A lot of coherence, the mouth corresponds to the expectation of what the nose can offer. On the whole, the wine is harmonious and already presents a lot of pleasure.
Can be kept for 7 to 10 years or more.
BOURGOGNE CÔTE D'OR rouge "Hémisphère Sud"
Crushed red fruit on the first nose. Raspberry and blueberry clearly stand out. Very charming and desirable.
Supple and graceful mouth, with subtle tannins and a crisp mid-palate. We find the fruit detected in the nose. The finish tightens and still needs to mellow but it also prolongs the wine.
Extremely seductive overall.Keep for 5 years.
BOURGOGNE CÔTE D'OR rouge "Hémisphère Nord"
Slight reduction at this stage. It opens up slowly but reveals itself to be powerful and on intense black fruits. Also an animal touch and smoky and spicy notes. The mouth is promising, supple with soft tannins. On the finish, the matter tightens.
An intense wine with wild aromas. It needs to become more complex.
Keeping time 5 to 6 years
BOUGOGNE CÔTE D'OR rouge " ETIENNE CAMUZET "
Beautiful aromatic intensity. Clean and pleasant fruit, which evokes ripe black fruits. After aeration, smoky, chocolate and leather notes are revealed.
Nice juice in the mouth, fleshy with velvety tannins and a greedy matter. The finish is fresh and sustained.
A high-flying Burgundy. It is a very seductive wine by its balance and its complexity.
Can be kept for 8 to 10 years.MARSANNAY
Nice nose on fresh candied fruits. An earthy side.
The mouth is in the same line, tonic with energy and a nice grain of tannins. Still tense, with a promising length, it will blossom.
The whole is homogeneous. Its freshness contributes to its salivating finish.
Keeping time 7 to 8 years
FIXIN
Fresh, pure and fine nose with notes of cherry and raspberry.
The attack in mouth is juicy and ample. The heart is enticing and rich, with satiny tannins. The finish tightens but remains subtle and tasty.
This wine needs to gain in complexity but already reflects a beautiful presentation of the appellation. Accessible, it can be appreciated when young. It will gain in complexity with time.
Can be kept for 7 to 8 years.
NUITS ST GEORGES
An immediately bewitching nose, with stewed fruits such as strawberry, cherry and flowers such as peony; also underlined by a subtle and well integrated woody note. The empyreumatic side complexifies and intensifies the olfactory aspect.
The palate is suave and crisp, with a generous body, showing noble and racy tannins, with a caressing texture. A long, spicy and smoky finish.
Very charming, as much by its aromatic profile as by its gustatory aspect. One finds great pleasure in drinking it now.
Potential for cellaring: 5 years.
GEVREY CHAMBERTIN
Discreet at the opening with a toasted reduction but quickly reveals itself. Notes of redcurrant and blueberry. Aeration intensifies the fruit and gives way to a nice wood influence.
The mouth is enveloping and fleshy. Tonic moreover, with a beautiful energy and a fresh matter. Sharp and sapid finish.
Overall, the nose is in retreat, the mouth reveals itself more and offers a nice volume. Very promising and harmonious, it still has many years ahead of it.
Can be kept for 8 to 12 years.NUITS ST GEORGES 1ER CRU LES PERRIÈRES
Flattering and deep nose. The wine expresses itself easily and reveals a bouquet with aromas of black fruits, tobacco, frangipane and spice. A subtly integrated oak accentuates the complexity. The mouth is tender but generous. Fine grained tannins embellish it, as well as a fresh and pure finish.
A very nice wine, on the whole quite powerful, which still has to integrate. In any case, promising!
Can be kept for 8 to 10 years.
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 1ER CRU LES CRAS
A subtly open nose, which delivers a charming bouquet and evokes red fruits, citrus fruits and faded flowers. The entry of mouth is finely refreshing. Lacey tannins and a caressing texture offer a supple mid-palate. Fresh and distinguished finish. Slight smoky note in retro-olfaction.
Very digestible, thanks to its delicate and fresh appearance. Lots of pleasure now!
Can be kept for 6 to 8 years.